What I wish I knew before going to Japan (brain dump)
Rusty's Electric Dreams :: (Big in Japan)
Heya, it’s Rusty, I went to Japan in January and, believe it or not, I'm still aching to write about Japan. So, I will be sharing my observations on their quirky, cool, and kawaii culture as a gaijin (essentially a "gringo") in (Big in Japan), a sub-Substack of my main inbox zine, Rusty’s Electric Dreams. (Don’t worry, that’s not going anywhere.)
Soooo, are you thinking about going to Japan?
Well, I encourage it, naturally. Here’s the brain dump I blasted out for a pal. It’s messy, enthusiastic, slightly obsessive. I cleaned it up just enough to share with you. Some tips were shared with me but many were just things SJ and I learned on our own. Take what works, leave what doesn’t.
Omg, you're about to have the time of your life. I’ve thought about Japan every day since I left, wondering how soon I can go back.
Ok, in general, the details matter and it is better to arrange whatever you can while you're still in the States because it can be a little disorienting and intense to deal with things over there. It can be done, but you'll have more fun if you get all your ducks in a row now.
Here’s a brain dump…
Packing + Planning
Get a solid phone charger. You'll need it.
Buy the international plan for your phone. Mine was through T-Mobile at $50 for the month.
Carry your passport on you at all times. Make a paper copy of it.
Pack an empty suitcase. I'm not kidding. There is an insane amount of cool stuff to buy and it's so cheap because the yen is down.
Pack less than you think. I wore every single thing I brought (over and over) and didn't feel I overpacked. Underpack. Buy stuff there. That being said, everything is smaller in Japan, including clothes.
Wear compression socks on the airplane.
Invest in a great neck pillow for the plane. Don’t cheap out. No inflatables. This is the one I got at the airport shop and it worked well.
Get Yen at an ATM in the airport or at a 7-Eleven. Start with $300. You need cash a lot. BRING A COIN PURSE. So many coins.
Always pick JPY as your currency on credit cards. You'll get a better rate.
Useful apps:
I found Wanderlog early in the process of planning our Japan trip, and it ended up being invaluable. It kept everything in one place and actually made the planning part fun.
I used the Timeshifter app to try and avoid jet lag. It kinda worked. I didn’t feel too out of it.
Suica (for train rides) but it’s only good for iPhones. Us Android users have to buy paper tickets each step of the way. It’s doable, but not ideal.
Google Maps will help you navigate the regular train system (JR in Tokyo) but not the Shinkansen (bullet train). Signs are in English at the train stations, thank goodness.
Citymapper (trains/travel) was great in Tokyo but not Kyoto.
Currency converter app (no particular rec).
I used Faye for my travel insurance. They have a good app.
Google Translate app is your friend. Point it at signs, menus, etc.
Do this before you leave:
Fill out the Visit Japan customs form for easy entry.
Accomodations
If you can, stay in a rental (VRBO/AirBNB type) at least once. If you can find a traditional place with tatami mats and futons, even better. It was cool to stay in a real Japanese home. On top of the ambiance, we got to cook and wash clothes, etc. We also LOVED shopping with locals at the grocery store.
Hotels are awesome there though. They give you all the amenities including shampoos and conditioners, so don't pack those. They also give you pajamas and slippers to wear. The pj's didn’t fit me but I enjoyed the thought. In our hotel, there were signs saying ‘don't wear them out of the room’ lol.
Gifts for locals
Bring small gifts to give away to locals. They LOVE gifts. Say, “Arigato gozaimasu” or if they speak English, say, “It’s not much but…” when you give them the gifts. Watch them melt.
What I brought:
My personal patches
Candy necklaces
They especially seem to love:
Small, interesting things with English on them. Something they can’t easily get in Japan. American things.
Small Trader Joe’s tote bags (these are actually in demand and Tokyo Central made their own version)
Retro 50s Americana (Elvis, Marilyn, etc.)
Quirky brand mascots
Stationery
Rubber stamps
Don’t overthink it. Just bring a few things you can hand out in the right moment.
Getting Around
Book the Shinkansen (bullet train) before you go. I think you can do it one month to the day.
Get the D-side tickets if you want to be on the Mt. Fuji side.
Buy food BEFORE going to the platform. There’s a lot of good food before the gates, not as much once you’re up there.
If you're traveling with big luggage, book the seats marked with "Oversized Baggage." They don’t cost more but there's room behind the seats for your luggage.
Don’t bring your big luggage on the regular train during rush hour. Take a rideshare (there’s only Uber) or taxi.
Stay near train stations if you can.
Find the elevator in the stations if you’ve got luggage. So many stairs.
We used something called Radical Storage to stash our bags for a few hours after we checked out of our hotel but wanted to run around the city. Super handy.
Things to Book in Advance
Ghibli Museum in Mitaka: Book on the 10th (Japan time, not your local time) prior to the month you want to visit. Everyone in your group should get in a separate queue on their device but not multiple windows or devices. You're more likely to get a mid-week reservation than a weekend one. Totally worth the trouble. It was one of the many highlights of our trip.
DisneySea: If you’re going to a Disney park, this is the one not to miss. It’s the crown jewel and it’s like $60 to get in. Another highlight for us. Don’t miss Sindbad's Storybook Voyage. It’s bananas.
Food + Culture Stuff
Learn arigato gozaimasu (thank you) and sumimasen (sorry) until you have it down. I found myself repeating both in my head on the train so I wouldn’t forget.
People don’t say sayonara though. They say jaane.
In general, public restrooms don't have paper towels. They carry around these little "face cloth" towels and dry their hands that way. I love them so much, and they sell the towels everywhere. I bought at least ten.
Carry a little trash bag with you because public trash cans are few and far between. You’ll get rid of it in your hotel room or rental.
Learning Japanese ahead of time through Duolingo was basically useless.
Don’t eat or drink while walking. Big no-no.
Don’t point your chopsticks up while you’re eating. It’s rude.
Don’t photograph people without asking. Also rude. I learned the hard way.
Don’t photograph geishas. They warn you a lot. You won’t forget.
Don’t look at anyone but your friends or your phone on the train. Keep quiet. People are polite and quiet on public transit.
No tipping. Ever. For anything. It’s rude, don’t do it.
Get a mobile phone strap so you can keep your phone on your body and ready to use. Super handy.
In onsens (hot springs):
Learn how to tie your yukata properly.
Really shower. Wash your hair and everything before getting in the water.
Cover tattoos. Some places allow them, but a lot don’t.
Eggs have much yellower yolks. They’re better.
Japanese-style toilets (the squat kind)? Avoid if you can.
Western-style ones with all the buttons? Heaven. I miss them.Go to Family Mart or 7-Eleven for amazing snacks and quick meals. We spent hours poking around in them, taking photos, picking out the perfect snacks.
Japanese folks don’t wear leggings without something covering their butt.
People are so polite in Japan, and it’s contagious. A little bow goes a long way, even if it’s just a nod of thanks. I was still bowing days after I got back home.
Don’t be afraid to go into bars or ramen spots. Most places in the city have English menus and are super friendly to foreigners. Some places you order food outside on a screen and it’s nice because there’s an English menu option. We used those in a few spots.
We ran into lots of Australians and some Americans. We didn’t engage with the latter, lol.
If it’s called a hostel, it might actually be like the Ace Hotel. In other words, awesome. We had our own bathroom in ours at Emblem Flow Hakone.
Weird + Wonderful
Mega Don Quijote: Get up early (you’ll already be jet-lagged and awake) and go to this wild, overwhelming, amazing place. It’s like Vegas but for Japanese souvenirs.
Go to stationery stores. If you can, check out Ginza Itoya in Tokyo. It’s fancy. But my absolute favorite was Yamada Stationery in Mitaka (only in Japanese on Google Maps). I spent $139 on a ton of precious little tiny things there. I went back the next day for more but they were closed. Sad trombone. If you go, I want to give you a list. Just rubber stamps. Nothing big. I shoulda bought more.
Shibuya Crossing? Underwhelming.
Vending machines are everywhere. Sometimes even in the woods. Many serve hot drinks. Konbinis (convenience stores) also have hot “cooler” sections where all the drinks are warm. So good.
In Kyoto, get up and out by 6 a.m. to avoid the tourist stampede at shrines. Or go at night. Any place that influencers have covered will be packed—the bamboo forest, etc. Be willing to walk further than other people to find a quiet temple or shrine. Worth it. Japan is dealing with overtourism right now, so being mindful goes a long way.
We went to Tokyo, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Hakone, and back to Tokyo for Disney. Two weeks. We loved every place.
Japan or Die is a good newsletter on Japan.
Oh gosh... there’s so much more, but that’s a good start.
— Rusty Blazenhoff
P.S. Burning question about Japan? Hit me up in the comments. I might not be an expert, but I am enthusiastic and deeply obsessed.
really wonderful. soke of my family going in a few weeks, All this is heaven sent ( sent fron you, bu close enough)
I'd waited to read this one until I knew I'd have bandwidth to give it really close attention... Glad I did! Arigato gozaimasu!